A TRIP TO TAIPING

Robertson Collins
rcollins@questbay.com
18th March 2001

If you are driving through Malaysia, which by the way, is a great way to see the country, Taiping is the kind of a town you might not notice. It is modest, and on first glance it seems sleepy, out of the way and not too ambitious. It deserves a second glance; this is a pleasantly civilized town.

As you turn toward Taiping off the super North - South Highway that runs the length of the peninsula, put your mind into slow gear; you will notice that this is a community bent on improving itself, not selling itself to outsiders. A friendly livability goes a long way with the residents and the Town Council. As the Super-IT Corridor develops this may not be the place to locate a new chip plant but it will certainly be the place where the smart executives will want to live. This is a town of simple pleasures, enduring charms.

To the East, the long line of the Taiping Hills provide a comfortable and inviting green backdrop. In the last century tin mines were booming. It became the “town of everlasting peace” to commemorate the end of a long, vicious, senseless war between three Chinese mining camps.

In this century it has re-invented itself into a highly livable community. In 1880 the now-famous Taiping Lake Gardens were built on one of the abandoned tin mines. This recreation area included a large lake and extensive roads designed for leisurely carriage rides and eventually a golf course that came within a two-iron shot of the Town Hall.

In 1964 the Zoo was added and then a few years ago, the Lake Gardens golf course was closed; a new course is located in the foothills out of town. The old course is now a huge in-city garden. You can still discern the former fairways, sand-traps and putting greens but continual planting is
converting the course into a happy area for walking, jogging and family outtings. You can drive through it but be prepared to stop a lot, there is an ideal picnic spot about every ten feet and the original great trees offer just the right dappled shade for an afternoon nap on the grass. These old trees are also stunning photo opportunities. Some have branches that have arched over the road, dipped down and taken root again there. Fantastic,
beautiful giants!

I rave on about the converted old golf course because it is an example of how absolutely charming something absolutely simple can be. They made no showy effort, no push or promotion, no add-ons or contrived features; Taiping Lake Gardens succeeds by being just a hundred and forty-three hectares dedicated to leisure enjoyment. This is the epitome of Taiping’s allure.

As you drive along the streets you will see that many homes and buildings are being sensitively restored. Do not miss the Central Market, right downtown or the Museum, the oldest in the country! In the Town Hall there is a counter where you can get maps and brochures.

I also give Taiping high marks for having a stall that sells the best chendol ever prepared! Lots of bigger cities have bluffed their way along on less.

Chendol is a soft, round, bright green noodle made of rice flour colored by the juice from crushed pandan leaves. The dough is pushed through a flat sieve into boiling water. The noodles are served in a bowl with a few large red beans, then covered with a mound of finely shaved ice on top of which is ladled coconut milk and a rich dark palm sugar syrup..

My favorite stall is on Jalan Yusoff just north of Barrack Road. I must tell you it does not look famous; it is truly a hole in the wall but park your car and join the crowd. There are four tables. The turn-over is constant; the repeat customers are loudly loyal. The owner is a hearty genius who presides with a welcoming smile. There are other chendol stalls in town equally full of loyal customers. One is tempted to think of Taiping as the chendol capital of the country.

You will think me mad when I urge you to visit yet another special place. Before you leave town, or perhaps on your way out of town, go to Matang. It is past the freeway towards the coast, on beyond the Sultan’s Palace (doesn’t that tempt you?). You have to pay attention because you could drive right through it; it is just a small spot with about four out-door restaurants. Fish and fish stews are specialties. Shop around and take your choice. Ask to see the days catch which will be in ice-chests right by the entrance.

I could rave about the local seafood but on a global scale, Matang is famous for having the finest mangrove swamp in the world. The world! You can take a boat ride around it and then come back and enjoy some of the super-fresh
treats that are caught there.

You are about an hour from Penang and a little less to Ipoh but if you want to stay on in middle-size Malaysia, there are plenty of good hotels in Taiping.